Situated in the North Male Atoll, Kurumba is a mere 10 minute speedboat ride away from the airport and the Maldives’ capital, Male. It is famous as a honeymoon hideaway so I was keen to find out what the island has to offer in the way of romance and relaxation.
Our deluxe bungalow was above and beyond our expectations, with various mammalian shaped towels and our own private shower garden. When you have been raised on a farm with dodgy plumbing, washing your hair outside is less of a novelty. The literature left for us in the room promised a gym, pool, courts, snorkelling, sailing and wake boarding, but looking at the panoramic view of the Indian Ocean I planned a far more serene week ahead.
Kurumba is certainly a holiday for indulgence. Despite the lack of local amenities on the island, you are spoilt for choice in the way of eateries; the location of the Maldives lends itself equally to Teppan-yaki, Arabian cuisine, Indian, Asian, Lebanese and Mediterranean dishes. As we over-ate in the Ocean grill on the over water decking, we planned out our Maldivian experience to include exploring the reef and visiting a local community on a neighbouring island. There is something about this island that takes an eagerness for adventure sports out of even the most intrepid traveller and replaces it with a wanton need to be pampered, fed and watered, groomed and well rested.
We did at least muster up the energy to enrol on a diving course. You are offered a choice of shallow water diving, house reef diving, Mata Point, wreck dives and drift dives. I am so glad we did because the coral reef, the medley of sea life and downright pleasantness of all the staff involved made it the most overawing experience I have ever had below sea level. I did suffer from slight whale shark anxiety though; you’d be amazed how similar “he eats weeds” and “he eats feet” sound underwater!
Our day trip out to Male on the dhoni (sailing boat) was inspirational as we immersed ourselves in the routines of local tradesmen and women who have harvested their island’s raw materials since long before any cottage industry emerged back home. We explored a traditional village and witnessed time honoured crafts such as mat weaving and coir rope making; in reality the islands are actually far more involved in the fields of PVC pipe manufacturing and marine engine repair these days, but these didn’t feature on our tour!
After such hard work, it seemed only right that we treated ourselves to a spa day. I commend the Maldivians for their creativeness; I never knew that there were so many uses for coconut. It appeared in the form of oils, nectars, milk, water, dried and as an exfoliating husk; it was even carved into wooden tools.
Despite this holiday’s list of perfections, I couldn’t shake a niggling sense of guilt from the back of my mind. The Maldives is the lowest country in the world and a ten hour flight is something to consider when contemplating rising sea levels. The terrible irony is that everyone should have the opportunity to enjoy the Maldives but this beautiful paradise will be the first place to bear the brunt of our environmental footprint.
Kurumba is a seventh heaven; from the helpfulness of the staff (the porter fetched hair clippers when we asked if there was anywhere that my partner might get a trim) to the exquisite food, this island will not disappoint. It is obviously not a quick getaway, nor is it a cheap break, but it is a once in a lifetime paradise and a Robinson Crusoe adventure to remember.
Carrie Cartwright-Owen |
